Down on the Chesapeake - Adding verve to a historic cuisine
By Carole Kotkin

The Chesapeake Bay region is blessed with glorious food - half East Coast and half Deep South in character - and there are few tastes that can't be satisfied here. Because of the wealth of raw materials found in this region, there is an overwhelming sense of plenty and abundance. And it is this bounty that typifies American cuisine.

Residents of the Chesapeake Bay area set the template for the nation's early cuisine by using the indigenous ingredients from the land and waters surrounding the nation's capital. As the centuries passed, the ingredients remained the same, but the dishes have evolved to create a modern, interpretive style.

"Chesapeake Bay cooking" immediately brings to mind the world-famous blue crabs, briny Chincoteague oysters and fresh clams. "There is a saying in Baltimore that crabs may be prepared in 50 ways and all of them are good," H. L. Mencken wrote. Eating crabs is a must when dining on the banks of the Chesapeake, and you'll find plenty of bayside crab houses serving them steamed and spicy. The crabs are harvested in various stages of their development - as hard-shell crabs, peeler crabs just prior to molting, and soft-shell crabs immediately after the molt. In the fall, fishermen put away their crab gear and begin the harvest of oysters, which begins in late September and runs through April.

To understand the region's food, one must know a little bit about the geography. The Chesapeake Bay, the largest estuary in North America, is a stretch of water about 200 miles long. It ranges from 4 miles wide near Annapolis, to nearly 30 miles wide near Port Lookout, Maryland. It offers 2,200 square miles of water to cruise and close to 6,000 miles of shoreline to explore.

Starting at the Susquehanna River to the north, the Chesapeake Bay stretches from the Delaware-Maryland-Virginia Peninsula to Tidewater, Virginia, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. The word chesapeake means "great shellfish bay," a term derived from the Susquehannock Indians, who were settled here before the British landed on its shores. According to John Shields, chef-owner of Gertrude's restaurant in the Baltimore Museum of Art and author of Chesapeake Bay Cooking, "When Captain John Smith guided his ship into the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay in 1608, he wrote in his diary that "the fish were so thick, we attempted to catch them with frying pans."

The Chesapeake's waters are home to fish both strange and familiar - rockfish (striped bass), hard heads (croaker), Norfolk spot, flounder and sea trout, though only the mainstream fish show up on restaurant menus.

But there is much more than fish and shellfish - Smithfield country hams, aged salty hams with a distinctive flavor and texture that must bear the markings "Smithfield, Virginia" to be deemed authentic (much like Champagne); barbecued meats served at family cook-outs along the Rappahannock River; field peas and greens cooked with smoky bacon; ethereal spoon bread, a soft, soufflé-like dish made with cornmeal; and Lady Baltimore cake, a cake made with plenty of egg whites covered with frosting laden with raisins, nuts, figs and Cognac. According to Shields, "The Chesapeake region is often referred to as 'America in miniature' because of its wide diversity of terrain." The Eastern Shore, indeed, is covered with acres of farmland growing a vast variety of produce.

In late summer, roadside stands and markets in the region are heaped high with mountains of corn, melons, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, cauliflower and early autumn squash, all at their best. Home cooks and upscale chefs alike scour the markets for just-picked ingredients. Perhaps the most appealing, tantalizing way to appreciate this abundance is to combine a trip to the market with lunch at a nearby restaurant to see what the chef has chosen from this Chesapeake bounty.

Executive Chef Jeff Tunks, of the cutting-edge D.C. Coast in the nation's capital, says, "There is nothing more satisfying than cooking at the peak of the season and following the natural rhythm of the market. I'm thrilled with the varieties of fish and shellfish I'm able to source this time of the year."

For some chefs, their menu items reflect a regional love affair with their surroundings. In the kitchen of D.C. Coast, Chef Tunks says his mission is to take classic coastal dishes and give them "new twists and sophisticated flair. With soft-shell crabs from the Chesapeake Bay, Smithfield ham from Virginia and spices from Chinatown, I'm having the time of my life," he says enthusiastically. Tunks displays this flair with the ultimate crab cakes - pan-seared jumbo lump crab cakes with pickled okra relish and lemon Tabasco butter sauce. In season, he drapes a crisp, soft-shell crab over the top.

For others, such as Executive Chef Jeff Shively of Sea Catch Restaurant & Raw Bar, located on the banks of the C & O Canal in Georgetown, their new perspective is really a retrospective look at comfort food. Typical is his Champagne oyster stew with Brie cheese, which borrows from the classic Southern dish. "In the South, oyster stew is basically, oysters, cream and butter. I use Champagne and brie to update the recipe," he says. "Fresh, quality regional ingredients is what good cooking is all about," he says, echoing the sentiments of many of his peers.

Just 70 miles from the better-known "big" Washington, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, stands The Inn at Little Washington. This glamorous inn serves what is considered by many to be the best food in the United States. The abundant accolades proclaim how special this place really is. To cite just a few: The James Beard Foundation crowned chef-co-owner Patrick O'Connell Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic Region and The Inn as Restaurant of the year in 1993 and having the Best Wine List Award in 1998. O'Connell has the talent to coax elegance from the simplest ingredients.

A perfect example is his rendition of risotto with shrimp, oyster mushrooms and country ham.

Today's best Chesapeake chefs are cooking up an exciting new culinary idiom combining local traditions and indigenous ingredients with foods native to other countries as well as other regions of the United States.

Something old, something new

Champagne Oyster Stew with Brie cheese
Adapted from a recipe by Chef Jeff Shively
Sea Catch Restaurant

1 quart oysters (about 32)
2 cups water
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 leek (white part only) cleaned and chopped
3 ribs celery, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon thyme
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup Champagne
2 cups heavy cream
8 ounces Brie cheese, diced
Salt to taste
1 bunch scallions, chopped

Place shucked oysters with their liquor and water in a medium bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour. In the meantime, place a large saucepan over medium heat. Add butter and oil. When butter is melted, add vegetables, herbs and seasonings. Sauté until onions are translucent. Sprinkle flour over vegetables and stir with a wood spoon to incorporate. Cook for 1 minute. Strain oysters from the liquid and reserve. Add the oyster liquid to the vegetables and stir until smooth. Add Champagne and simmer 20 minutes. Add cream and cook for another 5 minutes. Add Brie and turn off heat. Stir until cheese is completely dissolved. Strain soup through a medium sieve. Return soup to a simmer then add oysters, stirring to incorporate. Adjust seasoning with salt. Cover and turn off heat. Let sit for 5 minutes. Serve in bowls and garnish with chopped scallions.
Serves 8 (4 oysters per serving)

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake with pickled okra relish
Adapted from a recipe by Chef Jeff Tunks
D.C. Coast Restaurant

Jumbo lump crab meat makes the most succulent cakes. If the cakes are refrigerated after they are formed, they will hold together better when cooked.

1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon minced chives
1 egg
11/2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/4 cup fresh, white bread crumbs
Salt to taste
2 ounces olive oil
Cayenne pepper to taste
Pick over crabmeat for bits of shell and cartilage. In a large bowl, gently mix crabmeat with remaining ingredients, except olive oil. Shape crab mixture into 8 cakes. Place cakes on a wax paper-lined cookie sheet and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. Preheat oven to 350°. Heat oil in a 12" non-stick pan over medium-heat. When the oil is hot, add cakes and sauté until golden brown on both sides. Don't crowd pan. If necessary, cook in two batches. Immediately place in oven for 5 to 7 minutes.

Relish:

1 ear of corn on the cob, husks and silks removed
1 red onion, minced
10 whole picked okra, thinly sliced
2 Roma tomatoes, diced
1/2 teaspoon fresh garlic, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh chopped cilantro
Salt and pepper to taste
Place corn on a grill over very hot coals. Grill, turning often to brown them evenly, for 5 to 7 minutes. Remove kernels from the cob. Place vegetables in a large bowl. Mix with olive oil and vinegar until thoroughly combined. Add the cilantro and mix once. Taste for seasoning. Serves 8.
 

Lemon Tabasco Butter Sauce:

4 shallots
Sprig of thyme
8 peppercorns (black)
1/2 cup of white wine
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco
Juice of one lemon
Salt to taste
Slice shallots and put in pan, then add peppercorns, thyme and white wine. Cook at medium heat until liquid is almost gone and practically dry. Add cream. Reduce by half. Whisk in butter. Strain. Season with lemon and Tabasco. Keep warm and serve.

Shrimp Risotto with oyster mushrooms and country ham
From The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook
by Chef Patrick O'Connell

What follows is a clever method of making risotto that allows you to partially cook the rice in advance and chill it to prevent overcooking. It can then be quickly reheated and finished by adding hot liquid just before serving. The rice will remain beautifully al dente. Not even an Italian grandmother will be able to discern that all the time-consuming procedures were performed a day in advance.

Risotto Base:

2 cups shellfish stock, chicken stock or water
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 large onion, minced
1 cup oyster mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
In a 2-quart saucepan, bring the stock or water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and keep just below boiling. In another 2-quart saucepan, heat the butter and oil. Add the onion and cook until translucent. Add the mushrooms, stirring with a wood spoon, and cook for about 4 minutes more. Add the rice and stir until it is evenly coated with the butter-oil mixture. Slowly add the hot stock, 2/3 cup at a time, stirring constantly until the rice absorbs the liquid. This should take about 4 to 5 minutes for each addition. When all the stock has been absorbed, remove the risotto from the stove and pour onto a baking sheet to stop the cooking and cool as quickly as possible. (The rice will still taste a bit raw in the center.) Refrigerate, uncovered, until cold. (The risotto base can then be stored in a covered plastic container for up to 2 days.)

Shrimp and Mushrooms

11/2 cups shellfish stock, chicken stock or water (approximately)
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese
4 tablespoons olive oil
24 fresh shrimp, peeled, deveined and split in half lengthwise
1 teaspoon minced shallot
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup oyster mushrooms, coarsely chopped
Bring the liquid to a boil. Place the chilled risotto base in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat and add the butter. Pour 11/2 cups of the boiling stock slowly into the risotto, stirring constantly with a wood spoon. Continue cooking until the rice is just barely tender but still al dente. Stir in the cheese, adjusting the consistency with more stock if the risotto becomes too thick. Remove from the heat and keep warm. In a 10" sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil almost to smoking. Add the shrimp and sauté until just pink, being careful not to overcook. Add a pinch of the shallot and garlic and sauté for a few seconds more. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the pan and keep warm. In the same skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until very hot. Add the mushrooms and sauté. Add the remaining shallot and garlic. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the pan.
Garnishes:

Freshly grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese
1/2 cup julienne country ham
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
Divide the risotto into 8 warm soup plates. Sprinkle the shrimp and mushrooms on top of each portion. Garnish with the cheese, ham and chives.
Serves 8

Zucchini & Tomato Casserole
From Chesapeake Bay Cooking
by Chef John Shields


6 medium zucchini, thinly sliced
1 onion, diced
4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pinch of Chesapeake seasoning (Old Bay is optional)
4 ounces grated mozzarella or sliced provolone cheese
Preheat oven to 375°. Butter a 4-cup casserole. Melt the butter in a skillet. Add the zucchini and onion and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, or until half-cooked. Remove from the heat and add the tomatoes, salt, pepper and Chesapeake seasoning. Pour into the dish and top with the cheese. Bake for 15 minutes, or until cheese melts and begins to brown. Remove from oven and let stand 5 minutes before serving.
Serves 4

Grilled Corn in the husks

Select 6 ears of corn with the whole husk and silk. Soak ears of corn in cold water for 15 minutes before putting them on the grill. Don't worry about removing the silks, they will come off when you remove the husks. Squeeze out the excess water and place the corn directly on a hot grill, turning occasionally with tongs, for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the heat of the grill. Peel off husks and serve with salt and butter.

Serves 6


Article first published in The Wine News

 

Food Editor Carole Kotkin is a Miami-based cooking instructor and consultant who co-authored Mmmmiami - Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere. It provides clear, simple directions for 150 dishes, from the simple (good old Key Lime Pie) to the sublime (Coconut Mahi-Mahi with Passion Fruit Sauce). The wide array of flavors is especially wonderful and startling to those used to monocultural cooking; Miami cuisine is the product of many generations of interbreeding and hybrid vigor. Click on the link below for more details or to order.

Mmmmiami : Tempting Tropical Tastes for Cooks Everywhere

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