Oyster Tips
by Linda Murphy

The federally mandated testing of aquacultural waters, temperature-controlled shipping and a commitment to quality by top U.S. shellfish farmers have made the year-round consumption of oysters satisfying and safe, especially as it concerns bivalves raised in the cool waters of the Pacific. To ensure freshness, buy from reputable fishmongers who enjoy a high turnover. California oysters are shipped in bags that carry Department of Fish and Game tags specifying where and when they were harvested and certifying that the waters were safe at the time of harvest. If you have concerns about the freshness of oysters at the market, ask to inspect the tag, which retailers and restaurateurs must keep for 90 days after delivery. When you get live oysters home, immediately rinse them in cold water and store them in the coldest part of the refrigerator (35-40˚ F), cup-side down, on ice (but not covered in ice) and draped with a damp towel. They should
remain alive for seven to ten days, but freshness deteriorates with each day.

 Michael Watchorn is widely renowned for his Hog Island oysters, which he cultivates in the waters of Tomales Bay; anyone who’s around when he cranks up the grill is in for a memorable feast.

Photo by Rory McNamara

Freshly shucked oysters have a shelf life of about a week when  stored in a tight-sealing plastic container or jar in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Live shellfish clam up when handled, so an oyster that doesn’t close when you press on its shell is dead and must be discarded. When cooked, oysters relax their adductor muscle and their shells pop open; discard those that do not open after cooking.

For the freshest oysters, purchase them live and shuck them yourself just prior to serving. Scrub oysters to remove grit, rinse under cold water and drain. Wearing a thick glove or oven mitt, hold the oyster with the cup side down. Insert an oyster knife or clean flathead screwdriver into the pointed end of the oyster, at the hinge, and carefully work the tip back and forth until it penetrates the shell. Twist the knife to pop the shell open, being careful not to cut into the meat. Then slide the knife along the top shell
to cut the muscle, remove the top shell and run the knife under the oyster to
sever the bottom muscle.

Eating raw oysters is safe when they’re purchased from reputable sources and stored properly. However, the Food and Drug Administration recommends that all shellfish be cooked to kill any bacteria that may exist. It also warns that people with liver disorders or weakened immune systems are especially at risk by eating raw shellfish. For information, call the FDA Seafood Hotline at (800) FDA-4010.

Grilling Oysters
Prepare a white-hot charcoal fire. Scrub oyster shells with coarse salt under
cold running water. Place on grate cup-side down. Grill until oysters open. Remove top half of shell and dress with any one of the recipes that follow.
Serve hot.

Chipotle and Lime Butter
Courtesy of Cakebread Cellars

~4 dozen fresh oysters, scrubbed
~8 ounces unsalted butter, softened
~2 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce
~1 lime, juice and grated zest
~Pinch of salt
~Lime wedges

Cut butter into small pieces and place in food processor. Remove seeds and veins from the 2 chilies and chop coarsely. Add chili to butter along with a tablespoon of adobo sauce from the can. Add lime juice, zest and salt. Pulse until whipped. Grill oysters. Remove top half of shell and put a small dollop of the chipotle butter on each oyster. Garnish with a lime wedge.

Wine suggestion: Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
Serves 8

Roasted Oysters Breton
Courtesy of Pearl

~Desired quantity of raw oysters
~Sweet butter, cut into 1/4” cubes
~5-year-old balsamic vinegar
~Rock salt and parsley to garnish

Preheat oven to 450˚. Shuck raw oysters, discard top shells and place the oysters on their half shells in a shallow roasting pan. Roast for four minutes. While oysters cook, spread a 1/2” layer of rock salt on individual serving plates. Remove oysters to plates, nesting them in the salt. Place one cube of butter and two to three drops of balsamic vinegar on each oyster and serve immediately.

Wine suggestions: Nickie Zeller likes to pair the Havens, 2000 Albariño from
Carneros and the Amethyst, 2000 “Floralia” Malvasia Bianca from Monterey
County. Other whites that complement the sweet acidity of balsamic and the
creamy butter include two dry Rieslings: the 1999 Trimbach from Alsace and
Kim Crawford Wines, 2001 Riesling from New Zealand.

Hogwash
Courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.
(A spicy twist on mignonette sauce)

~1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar
~1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
   (natural)
~Juice of two limes
~2 jalapeño chilies, seeded and
   finely diced
~2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
~1/2 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped

Combine all ingredients and serve in a bowl with a small spoon alongside for ladleing sauce onto individual oysters. If making ahead, add cilantro just before serving. Makes 11/2 cups
Wine suggestions: Grassy, herb-tinged California and New Zealand Sauvignon
Blancs with racy acidity: Dry Creek Vineyard, 2000 DCV3 Fumé Blanc; St.
Supéry, 2001 Sauvignon Blanc; Wairau River, 2001 Sauvignon Blanc; Highfield,
2001 Sauvignon Blanc.

Oyster Barbecue Sauce
Courtesy of The Station House Cafe

~1 tablespoon olive oil
~2 cloves garlic, minced
~1 cup onion, chopped
~1 cup water
~2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
~2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
~1/4 cup brown sugar
~11/2 cups tomato ketchup
~1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
~2 tablespoons lemon juice
~1 tablespoon A-1 sauce
~1/4 teaspoon salt

In a saucepan, sauté garlic and onion in oil until golden. Add remaining
ingredients and simmer for one hour. Keep warm until use.
Makes 21/2 cups, or enough sauce to dress a bushel of oysters

Naked Oysters chilled, shucked and with a squeeze of lemon

Wine suggestions: Mumm Cuvée Napa, 1997 Blanc de Blancs;  André-Michel
Bregeon, 1999 Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie; Domaine Laroche, 2000
Chablis, Saint Martin; Jean Reverdy, 2000  Sancerre; Pascal Jolivet, 2000
Pouilly-Fumé, or any similar wines from those regions. — LM

 

Linda Murphy is a Sonoma County-based wine and food writer and the former managing editor of WineToday.com, The New York Times on the Web.


Article first published in The Wine News