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 An
Ocean Harvest
By Carole Kotkin
Many years ago, while fishing with my father off a bridge on Miami
Beach, I caught my first fish. The memory of that small prize grilled
over a wood fire in our moonlit backyard is indelible. Growing up
surrounded by water and waking each morning greeted by the scent
of salt air helped to create my penchant for seafood.
As the days lengthen and spring turns to summer, the season is right
for an ocean harvest. I'm inclined toward preparations that are
generally light and elegant, and depend on complementary secondary
ingredients such as fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables. While
I no longer fish for my dinner (though I wish it were so), the good
quality and large selection of seafood at the local fishmonger's
almost make up for the lost romance.
It's no exaggeration to say that in recent years there has been
a revolution in seafood offerings. Old standards, such as flounder
and sole, have made room on the menu for more exotic species, such
as mahi mahi and opakapaka.
In my home state of Florida, the waters are teeming with dozens
of local species available year-round. But overnight delivery means
that the Key West yellowtail snapper sold at a fishmonger's in the
Midwest is likely as fresh as that filling the display cases in
Miami markets, as are the oysters from Washington State, the salmon
from Nova Scotia and the divers' scallops from Maine.
It is not surprising that demand has outpaced the natural production
capacity of oceans and streams, prompting many fishermen to become
farmers. Aquaculture is now one of the world's fastest-growing food
industries. Farmed fish is as good or better, many chefs contend,
than natural-habitat fish. "The farmed conch I use tastes 'conchier'
than any conch I've tasted," says Dawn Sieber, executive chef
at the Cheeca Lodge resort in Islamorada in the Florida Keys.
Because of her concerns about overfishing, Sieber removed swordfish
from her menu ten years ago, and grouper five years ago, because
of their "threatened species" status. Sieber relies heavily
on farm-raised species "to create awareness of the fragile
Keys ecosystem and the preservation of our resources."
She's not adverse, however, to responsibly harvesting non-threatened
species, and is often asked by Lodge guests to prepare the dolphin
(mahi mahi), wahoo and various snappers they have caught in the
surrounding waters. Sieber likes to cook the fish whole with the
skin, bones and head intact, which keeps it moist and flavorful.
"I leave skin on fillets as well, because it is that layer
of fat that keeps the flesh moist. The skin also protects the delicate
flesh from direct heat sources," she notes.
Sieber is one of a new generation of chefs venturing beyond traditional
preparations. They're as likely to poach a snapper in Thai seasonings
as they are to wrap it in banana leaves for steaming. Fine-grade
tuna is as likely to be prepared tartare as it would to be highly
seasoned and seared on a hot grill.
Pan-roasting is the latest craze in restaurant kitchens these days.
This is a two-step process that begins by sautéing the fish on one
side and finishing it in the oven for even cooking. The pan drippings
are usually deglazed with wine, making the preparation very friendly
to the same varietal at the table.
Hubert Baudoin, owner of Pierre's and Morada Bay Beach Café (both
Islamorada restaurants are affiliated with the Moorings resort),
is presenting fish and seafood with a spirited blend of Caribbean,
Asian and Mediterranean accents. He grew up in Ivory Coast, West
Africa, near the shores of the Atlantic Ocean and fondly remembers
the time he spent in the kitchen with his family's cook, whom he
considered a mentor. "Dishes like whole fish perfumed with
spices, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled over a wood fire developed
my affinity for fish," he recalls. Such early experiences led
Baudoin to respect the simple treatment that makes for impeccable
seafood dishes: "I instruct my chefs to source the freshest
seafood possible, use the gentlest cooking methods and get out of
the way."
Baudoin is always scouting new types of fish, both from the Caribbean
basin and points north. He loves to get his hands on the meaty and
elusive snook from local waters (this wily fish is best caught when
the moon is full, temperatures are low and the tide is high); he
also sources scallops from New England and mussels from Prince Edward
Island.
Cultivated mussels, the pride of Canada's Prince Edward Island,
are valued by chefs across the country for their size, cleanness,
flavor and tenderness.
Jeff McCourt is the executive chef at Prince Edward Island's Inn
at Bay Fortune, where superb dining and charming lodging can be
had under the same roof. A native of the island, McCourt has fashioned
a fish and seafood menu that is both sophisticated and delicious.
He relies heavily on local ingredients. "Whether it's foraging
for wild mushrooms in the backwoods or picking wild watercress next
to our stream before evening service, I have access to the freshest
ingredients available. Most of the produce is grown right here at
the Inn, and fresh seafood arrives daily from local fishermen."
McCourt adheres to preparations of the utmost simplicity. A sweet-meated
grilled fish is garnished with a brush of olive oil and a sprinkling
of freshly chopped herbs. Steamed mussels are dressed with a quick
grind of black pepper. They are often steamed in their shells, but
here they are also roasted, grilled, sautéed and puréed into a variety
of presentations. McCourt, an avowed fan of mussels, delights in
acquainting his diners with the briny mollusk.
He advises home cooks to store fresh mussels in the coolest part
of the refrigerator covered with a damp cloth, and to use them soon
after purchase. "Don't store mussels in an airtight container,"
he cautions. "The shell may open naturally, but this doesn't
necessarily mean the mussel is dead," he adds. "A gentle
tap on the shell will usually cause the mussel to close. If it doesn't
close, it should be discarded. Live mussels will open when cooked."
Like McCourt, trendsetting chefs everywhere are using less fat and
more unexpected flavors in their preparations, while adhering to
the cardinal rules of fish cookery: keep it fresh and keep it simple.
South Florida's Mark Militello, chef-owner of Mark's South Beach,
Mark's Las Olas and Mark's in the Park, wraps dolphin fillets in
banana leaves and steams the package with shallots, lime leaves
and coconut milk. He simply sautés Dover sole with salted capers
and serves it with lemon confiture.
Militello works closely with local fishermen who come to the restaurant
kitchen with their catch of the day. He revels in the variety of
fish available from nearby waters, ticking off a laundry list of
species that he employs like an artist choosing paints: "We've
got ten different snappers, about seven types of grouper, spiny
lobster, shrimp, swordfish and cowfish. I cook with farm-raised
soft-shell crab year-round, Indian River clams and Everglades frog
legs."
He turns to other regions for specialties such as New England diver
scallops, New Jersey blue spot prawns and Northwest oysters to round
out the texture and flavor in his menus. Militello's mantra: "I
serve the freshest seafood at its peak season."
Chefs in the coastal city of San Francisco have the bounty of the
Pacific Ocean at their fingertips, and a cornucopia of locally grown
ingredients to enhance and complement their seafood preparations.
Michael Mina, executive chef of Aqua in San Francisco and consulting
chef at both Aqua at the Bellagio in Las Vegas and Pisces in Burlingame,
California, focuses on the "whole, true flavors" of fish.
"I keep the techniques classic, but I use exciting flavors
and try to show my diners something different with combinations
of flavors or presentations," he says.
Mina is bold enough to serve essentially an all-seafood menu that
is innovative enough to thrill even the most jaded California diner.
A prime example of his sophisticated simplicity is one of the most
popular dishes at Aqua - a combination of rich, roasted spot prawns
stuffed with Dungeness crab, set off by a hot and sour vinaigrette
with orange hollandaise sauce.
And like his peers, Mina reaches beyond home waters to bring unusual
species to Aqua's table. "It's exciting for me to introduce
people to unusual fare such as fresh eel or even sea urchins,"
he says.
His advice for the home cook: "Take into account the qualities
of the seafood - its oil content and its flavor - then seek out
elements that counterbalance each other, like acidity and sweetness,
and spice and oil content."
My prize catch of little snappers sitting on the kitchen counter,
cleaned, scaled and ready for the grill remains fixed in my childhood
memory. They were stuffed with parsley and lemon slices and brushed
with salad oil. We sat outside on lawn chairs while the fish cooked
- the adults quaffing wine and the children drinking iced tea. Simple
pleasures are, indeed, the best.
Conch Fritters
adapted from a recipe by Chef Dawn Sieber
Cheeca Lodge, Islamorada, Florida
4 strips bacon, chopped
1 red pepper, seeded and diced
1 green pepper, seeded and diced
1 large onion, diced
1 teaspoon garlic, chopped
2 shallots, chopped
4 stalks celery, diced
4 slices soft white bread
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 cup corn meal
1 tablespoon Old Bay Seafood Seasoning
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1 tablespoon half & half
2 pounds farm-raised conch, skinned and finely chopped or ground
(if conch is unavailable, substitute crabmeat)
1 ounce fresh parsley
1 ounce fresh basil
For the Key lime mustard-mayo:
1 cup mayonnaise
Juice of 4 Key limes or other limes
2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
Pinch of cayenne
Pinch of salt
Pinch of pepper
1 teaspoon honey
Mix together ingredients for Key lime mustard-mayo and chill. Makes
1 1/2 cups.
Sauté bacon until crisp, remove from pan. Sauté peppers, onion,
garlic, shallots and celery in bacon fat. Cool. Process bread slices
in a food processor until fine crumbs are formed. In a bowl, combine
the flour, cornmeal, Old Bay Seasoning, breadcrumbs, cayenne, salt
and pepper; mix well. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with half &
half. Stir in conch, bacon, dry ingredients, parsley, basil and
reserved vegetables to form a soft dough. Form into balls.
Heat approximately 2" to 3" of oil to 375 degrees in a
deep fryer.
Working in batches, fry the conch fritters, turning several times,
until golden brown on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to paper
towels with a slotted spoon, and serve hot with cocktail sauce or
Key lime mustard- mayo. Makes about 30 fritters.
Pair with California brut sparkling wine
Crab Cakes with Plum Tomato Confit
adapted from a recipe by Executive Chef Michael Mina
Aqua, San Francisco
For the crab cake mix:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, diced small
1 stalk celery, diced small
1 pound fresh crabmeat (Dungeness or blue crab)
1/4 cup mayonnaise, either homemade or good quality store-bought
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon chives, chopped
21/2 tablespoons Panko (Japanese bread crumbs, available in Asian
markets)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat and sauté the onion and
celery until soft. Set aside.
In a large bowl, mix crab, mayonnaise, parsley, chives, sautéed
vegetables and enough Panko to hold the mixture together. Season
to taste. Form the mixture into 12 1" by 11/4" patties.
For the breading:
1/2 cup Wondra flour
2 eggs beaten with a little water
1 cup Panko
Place flour, egg mixture and Panko crumbs in 3 shallow bowls. Toss
crab cakes in the flour, then eggs, then crumbs so that each cake
is evenly coated. Place them on a baking sheet lined with wax paper
and refrigerate, uncovered, for 1 hour.
To finish:
Peanut Oil
Heat oil in a deep-fat fryer to 360 degrees. Add crab cakes and
fry until golden. You may have to do this in batches. Place fried
crab cakes on a cookie sheet and finish cooking in a 400 degree
oven for 6 to 7 minutes.
For the tomato confit:
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 quart plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 bunch basil, cut julienne
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat olive oil in a small skillet. Add garlic and sauté until soft.
Do not brown. Combine in a bowl with remaining ingredients. Marinate
at least 2 hours.
To assemble:
Deep-fried basil leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
Place 1/4 cup tomato confit in center of each of 6 salad plates
and top with 2 crab cakes. Sprinkle black pepper around the outer
rim of the plate. Top crab cakes with one deep-fried basil leaf.
Serves 6.
Pair with a crisp, California Sauvignon Blanc or French Sancerre
Florida Lobster Stew
adapted from a recipe by Executive Chef Hubert des Marais
Four Seasons Resort, Palm Beach, Florida
Chef des Marais encourages the home cook to expand upon his sumptuous
lobster stew: "I would guess that almost any place near a large
body of water has some sort of seafood stew in its cooking repertoire,
and Florida is no exception. Almost anything goes as far as ingredients
are concerned.
So feel free to add or subtract according to what you like and what's
best at the market."
2 Florida lobsters, flesh removed from the shell and cut into chunks,
shells reserved (substitute with Maine or African lobster)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup diced red pepper
1/2 cup diced yellow pepper
1/2 cup diced green plantain (or potato)
1/2 cup diced yuca (or potato)
1/2 cup diced boniato (or sweet potato)
1 cup sliced okra
Scotch bonnet pepper to taste (or other chili pepper)
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup dry sherry
4 cups lobster broth (recipe follows)
1 pound mahi mahi or other white fish cut into 4 ounce portions
1/2 cup fresh corn kernels
6 tablespoons cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
6 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1 ear corn, cut into 4 pieces
For the lobster broth:
Lobster shells and bodies
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
4 bay leaves
Place lobster shells in a large saucepan and barely cover with water.
Add onion and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, skim and reduce heat
to simmer. Simmer for about 45 minutes. Strain.
Heat butter in a soup pot. Add peppers, plantain, yuca, boniato,
okra, chili pepper, garlic and onion. Sauté over medium heat until
tender, but not browned.
Deglaze pan with sherry. Add lobster broth and bring to a simmer.
When root vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes, add lobster meat
and mahi mahi to the broth, along with corn kernels, corn on the
cob, cilantro, thyme and lime juice. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Simmer until lobster meat and mahi mahi is cooked, about 3 to 4
minutes. Serves 4.
Pair with a rich Australian Chardonnay
Island Blue Mussel and Sweet Potato Chowder
adapted from a recipe by Chef Jeff McCourt
The Inn at Bay Fortune, Prince Edward Island
This hearty chowder is the restaurant's most-requested recipe.
For the chowder:
5 pounds Island Blue Mussels, scrubbed
1 pound Spanish onions, chopped
4 ounces unsalted butter
6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
8 ounces carrots, peeled and grated
4 cups milk
2 cups cream
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled, julienned and deep fried
For the spicy butter:
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/4 cup molasses
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce
4 ounces unsalted butter
Place mussels and 1/4 cup of water in a pot with a tight-fitting
lid. Place on high heat and steam open the shells. Discard any that
don't open.
Remove meat and set aside; strain and reserve broth and some shells
for garnish. Sweat onions in butter over a high heat stirring frequently
and taking care not to burn. Cook until golden brown. Add garlic
for last few minutes. Add grated sweet potatoes, carrots, milk,
cream, spices and mussel broth. Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring
frequently, then check vegetables. They should be soft and mushy.
Purée thoroughly in a blender. Strain through a fine mesh strainer.
Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper. Add
reserved mussels and serve immediately with spicy butter and deep-fried
sweet potatoes.
In a medium-size saucepan, bring all spicy butter ingredients to
a simmer over low heat. Whisk together well and drizzle over the
soup as it is served. Serves 6.
Pair with Château des Charmes 1995 Chardonnay, Niagara-on-the-Lake
Coconut Mahi Mahi with Passion Fruit Sauce
adapted from a recipe in Mmmmiami - Tempting Tropical Tastes for
Home Cooks Everywhere
By Carole Kotkin & Kathy Martin
The coconut au natural called for in this recipe possesses a rich,
subtle sweetness that is much more complex than the heavily sweetened
coconut flakes used on cakes. Unsweetened coconut is available in
Caribbean groceries, health food stores and specialty markets. If
you're ambitious, you can buy a fresh coconut and grate your own.
Fish alternatives: snapper, pompano or any firm, white-fleshed fish.
1 cup unsweetened coconut, shredded
3/4 cup flour
1/2 cup milk
2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt plus more for the fish
4 6-ounce mahi mahi fillets, about 1/2-inch thick
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
For the passion fruit sauce:
Look for passion fruit purée in the freezer case of supermarkets
with an Hispanic clientele. If you can't find it, substitute un-reconstituted
pineapple juice concentrate.
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 shallots, peeled and minced
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/4 cup passion fruit purée
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Bring the wine, shallots, lime juice and passion fruit purée to
a boil in a small, heavy saucepan and let it cook down until it's
reduced to 1/3 cup, about 5 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat, and whisk in the butter until it's
melted and the sauce is slightly thickened. Makes about 1/2 cup.
Put the coconut, flour, milk and eggs in separate, shallow dishes.
Beat the eggs well with 1 teaspoon salt, which breaks up the whites
and makes for a more even coating. Set a wire rack over a cookie
sheet. Sprinkle the fillets with salt and pepper. Dip them one at
a time in the milk, the flour, the egg mixture and then the coconut,
coating them well on both sides. Set the fillets on the rack, and
refrigerate for at least 10 minutes to help the coating adhere.
(Note: Fish can be coated, covered and refrigerated for up to 3
or 4 hours before cooking.)
Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat.
Sauté the fillets, turning once, until the coconut is golden brown
and the fish is opaque throughout, about 8 minutes.
Transfer the fish to dinner plates, drizzle with passion fruit sauce,
and serve immediately. Serves 4.
Pair with an unctuous Viognier
Yellowtail Snapper with Brown Butter, Rum & Mango adapted from
a recipe by
Chef Mark Militello
Mark's Las Olas, Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Fish alternatives: other snappers, grouper, halibut or haddock
6 snapper fillets, 6-8 ounce each, skin on
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup clarified butter
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon julienned fresh ginger
1 cup diced fresh mango
3/4 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves
1/3 cup dark rum
Run your fingers over the fish fillets, feeling for pin bones, and
remove any you find with pliers. Take care not to pierce the skin.
If the fillets have skin, score them on the diagonal through the
skin side 3 times with a sharp knife. Season the fish with salt
and pepper. Lightly dust the fillets with flour, shaking off the
excess.
Heat the clarified butter in a large, nonstick frying pan. Sauté
the fish, starting skin-side down, until nicely browned and just
opaque through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to plates
or a platter.
Add the remaining butter to the pan and cook until browned. Add
the nuts, ginger, mango and mint leaves and sauté for 1 minute.
Whisk in the rum and bring to a boil. Correct the seasoning, adding
salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve immediately. Serves 6.
Pair with a weighty rosé Champagne
Pan-Seared Jumbo Sea Scallops with Goat Cheese Mashed Potatoes adapted
from a recipe from the kitchen of
Pierre's, Islamorada, Florida
12 jumbo sea scallops
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup flour
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 bunch scallions, cut on the bias
1 leek, julienned and fried
2 tablespoons white truffle oil
Season sea scallops with salt and pepper and dust with flour on
both sides.
Preheat oven to 350°. Heat vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet
over medium high heat. Add scallops and sauté until golden on each
side. Using tongs, transfer scallops to an oven-proof pan. Place
in oven and cook until opaque, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons
butter to the skillet and melt over medium heat until nut brown.
Add shallots and deglaze with vinegar and wine. Reduce by half.
Whisk in remaining 6 tablespoons of butter. Add salt and pepper
to taste.
For the mashed potatoes:
16 creamer potatoes
3 ounces goat cheese
1/4 cup sour cream
1 stick unsalted butter
Boil creamer potatoes with skins on until tender. Drain. Using a
potato ricer, food mill or electric mixer, mash potatoes. Add goat
cheese, butter and sour cream and mix until smooth. Season with
salt and pepper to taste.
To serve:
Place potatoes in the center of 4 individual dinner plates. Place
3 scallops on top of potatoes and spoon sauce around potatoes. Garnish
with scallions and leeks. Drizzle with truffle oil. Serves 4.
Pair with 1997 Trefethen Chardonnay
Article
first published in The Wine News
Food Editor
Carole Kotkin is a Miami-based cooking instructor and consultant
who co-authored Mmmmiami
- Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere. It
provides clear, simple directions for 150 dishes, from the simple
(good old Key Lime Pie) to the sublime (Coconut Mahi-Mahi with Passion
Fruit Sauce). The wide array of flavors is especially wonderful
and startling to those used to monocultural cooking; Miami cuisine
is the product of many generations of interbreeding and hybrid vigor.
Click on the link below for more details or to order.
Mmmmiami
: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Cooks Everywhere
|
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articles courtesy of The
Wine News
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